Buyao (simplified Chinese: 步摇; traditional Chinese: 步搖; pinyin: Bùyáo; lit. Chinese women’s hair ornament. It is a type of Chinese hairpin which was oftentimes decorated with carved designs and jewelries that dangles when the wearer walks, hence the name, which literally means “shake as you go”. The buyao is similar to a zan hairpin, except for the presence of its dangling ornaments, which are its primary featured characteristics. In ancient times, the use of buyao denoted noble status. Some noble women also put buyaos on their tiaras, making their hair decoration more luxurious than simple buyao. Many centuries after the fall of the Han dynasty, the buyao was introduced to ordinary civilians; and when all women were allowed to wear to it, more variety of materials were used to produce them. Buyao was passed down over generations; buyao decorated with pendants are still popular in modern-day China. Common material used in making the buyao was gold; the ornaments were typically jade and pearls. During this period, there were two types of buyao: the buyao flower and the buyao crown (Chinese: 步摇冠; pinyin: Bùyáoguān). The wearing of buyao were fashionable during the Han, Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties. The buyao flower was more prevailing in the Central plains and in the Southern dynasties and was worn by women only whereas the buyao crown was worn by both men and women in the Yan and Dai regions, which were the location where the ancient Xianbei resided. In ancient Chinese texts, the buyao is largely defined in terms of their structure. The earliest depiction of buyao so far can be found on the Mawangdui tomb funeral banner which shows Lady Dai wearing a buyao which was painting in the Western Han dynasty. During this period, the buyao was not only worn by the Han Chinese but also by the Wuhuan women who would grow their hair long, divide it into buns and decorate their hair with hairpins and buyao. The Hanshu mention the buyao guan worn by an official in the Jiang Chong zhuan (Chinese: 江充傳; lit. At the time of the Eastern Han dynasty, the buyao was introduced to Japan. According to the Yufu zhi (Chinese: 輿服誌) of the Jin shu also mentioned that the palace ladies from Western Han through Jin wore buyao in their hair as hair ornaments. Buyao are depicted in the Admonitions Scroll attributed to Gu Kaizhi as a pair of zan (Chinese: 簪), a type of Chinese hairpin, decorated with delicate ornaments which are shaped like birds and sits on delicate branches which extend out like blooming flowers and when the wearer would walk, blue qipao the thin branches would move slightly causing any hairpin ornaments or beads to shake. The buyao worn by the court ladies in the Admonitions Scroll might have been variants or lower-ranking variants of those worn by the empresses. The Murong, similarly to the people of Buyeo, wore gold ornaments which had dangling leaves called buyao guan (Chinese: 步摇冠; pinyin: Bùyáoguān; lit. Chinese buyao which were only worn by women. Buyao made of gold appear to be representative head ornaments of the early elite culture of the Murong Xianbei. According to the Murong Hui zaiji (Chinese: 慕容廆載記; lit. Initially, the Murong clan lived in the Liaodong regions, but during the Cao Wei dynasty, they migrated to the Liaoxi regions. When Mo Huba saw the people of Yan and Dai wearing the buyao guan, he ordered all his people to tie their hair and wear the buyao guan. Murong Xianbei leader, introduced the buyao ornaments to his people by copying it from the Chinese. The buyao crown largely disappeared when the Tuoba Xianbei conquered Northern China. In the Tang dynasty, golden buyao which were decorated with flowers and birds were favoured by the Empresses. The Tang dynasty empresses would attach their buyao to their ceremonial wig. Sherrow, Victoria (2006). Encyclopedia of Hair: A Cultural History. Buyao were also worn by the Tang dynasty upper-class women. Greenwood Publishing Group. p. Bu-yao” in Han-Wei and Northern-Southern Dynasties–《Arts Exploration》2012年02期”. Chen, Di (2017). “Fashion items favored by ancient beauties”. Laursen, Sarah (2011-05-16). “Leaves that Sway: Gold Xianbei Cap Ornaments from Northeast China”. Laursen, Sarah (2020). “Dressing the dead in Jin China”. The art and archaeology of bodily adornment : studies from Central and East Asian mortuary contexts. Sheri Lullo, Leslie V. Wallace. Byington, Mark E. (2016). The ancient state of Puyŏ in northeast Asia : archaeology and historical memory. Müller, Shing (2019). The Cambridge history of China. Vol. 2. Denis Crispin Twitchett, John King Fairbank. Runzhen, Niu (2021). The Origin of East Asian Medieval Capital Construction System The Ancient City of Ye. Milton: Taylor & Francis Group. Cambridge University Press. pp. You can help Wikipedia by expanding it. This decorative art-related article is a stub. This page was last edited on 26 September 2024, at 14:36 (UTC). Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 License; additional terms may apply. By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Wikipedia® is a registered trademark of the Wikimedia Foundation, Inc., a non-profit organization.

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